This is the remarkable story of an American icon who changed the sport of big wave surfing forever. Transcending the surf genre, this in-depth portrait of a hard-charging athlete explores ...
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Chiara Del Ciondolo,
This is the remarkable story of an American icon who changed the sport of big wave surfing forever. Transcending the surf genre, this in-depth portrait of a hard-charging athlete explores the fear, courage and ambition that push a man to greatness--and the cost that comes with it.
The close-ups of Hamilton and his surfer friends are remarkable. Their eyes have taken on a similar pale, greenish/blue/tan -of a life in water. There's great footage of various waves, of course--and Hamilton's talent on them can be observed easily with awe. The 8 millimeter color home movies show Laird at different stages of his life, along with his cocky attitude---it was a surprise to learn of the racial bullying he suffered in Hawaii---because he was the only white kid in his class. I wanted to learn more about his mother later in her life---Laird sprang from an interesting woman.
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